Sunday, February 6, 2011

The History of the Zipper

Worried about zippers in your Steampunk wardrobe? Never fear. They've been around in some form or another since the end of the 19th century.

Elias Howe patented an “automatic continuous clothing closure” on Nov. 25, 1851 (patent #8450), but he was so caught up with his other inventions (hello sewing machine!) that it wasn’t ever fully developed.

Whitcomb Judson patented the “clasp locker,” a shoe fastener on August 29th, 1893.

zipper4 - judson

He tried to market it with his company Universal Fastener Company, with business partner Colonel Lewis Walker, at the Chicago World’s Fair in 1893, but met with little interest. It was expensive to make, and didn’t perform that well – it developed a reputation for tearing fabric and popping open.

zipper

zipper2 - clasp locker

Gideon Sundback, an employee of the Universal Fastener Company, patented the “hookless fastener” in 1913, and the improved “separable fastener” on March 20, 1917, the zipper which we are familiar with today.

zipper5 - sundback2

zipper5 - sundback1

The name “zipper” was coined by the B.F. Goodrich Co. in 1925, when they began using them in their galoshes. They tried to trademark the word zipper, but were only allowed to trademark “Zipper Boots.” “Zipper” was determined to be a common noun, and too much in common usage.

They first became used in clothing in the 1930s, first in children’s clothing, and then in pants.

Since 1934, Yoshida Kogyo Kabushikikaisha (Yoshida Industries Limited) has been the leading producer of zippers, and also the machines that make zippers. They're estimated to make over 90% of the world's zippers today! That’s why so many zippers have the initials “YKK” on them.

zipper - modern

So zip away! As the years progressed, even though clothing styles in a Steampunk world may have not changed much, the ease of clothing yourself would have, I'm sure, let the zipper find its way into many a wardrobe.

New this week on Artfire!

OOAK Cabbage Rose Antique Painted Beads, Necklace and Earring Set



Spring Flowers Bracelet Purple Green Glass Blooms Pearls and Amethysts



Garnets and Pearls for My Lady OOAK Necklace on Sterling Silver



Steampunk Necklace For the Unlocking of Arcane Treasures OOAK Brass



Vintage Tri Tone Cuff Bracelet Copper Silver and Brass 1960s



Vintage Oval Cufflinks 14K Gold Filled



Vintage Purple Glam Silver Glitter Oval Pierced Earrings



Black and Clear Vintage Rhinestone Y Necklace



Vintage Rhinestone and Optic Blue Leaf Clipon Earrings

Friday, February 4, 2011

How cool!

Both dbvictoria and missvictoriasvintage were included in this collection by javagoth that just hit the front page of Artfire!

The Great Sewing Room Reclamation of 2011

I think any costumer has a clutter problem, but mine had gotten completely out of control.

I'm supposed to be working on a 12 costumes in 12 months project, but things haven't been going that well, and it was mainly because I'd accumulated so much in the sewing room that I practically couldn't walk through the room anymore. I was well on my way to being a feature on Hoarders in a couple years if I kept up like this. I actually broke my streak of not ever, for any reason, watching reality TV and sitting down for a couple of episodes of this show before I started, looking for hints and a little psychological prep.

The thing that caught me about the people on the show is how they all talked about how embarrassed they were by the mess and clutter, but how helpless they felt to deal with it. I just had one room to deal with and I still took over a month from start to finish. Imagine having a whole house to deal with! Part of me doesn't want to show what it looked like to begin with, but that's part of the process for me, a visual, public record of how I let things get to hopefully give me the impetus to never get to that point again.

So, here's before, during and after pictures of the cleaning, organizing and weeding.

First, there's the costume bar, a long dowel that the husband hung from the ceiling for me. There were boxes piled up underneath it and a lot of things that were just piled on top of the boxes instead of being hung. I didn't take an initial picture of this, but here's the empty space after taking out the boxes:

clean up 1

Here's what was piled underneath:

clean up 2

And here's how it looks today:

clean up 21

I've got a set of wooden IKEA shelves to the left of my sewing counter, and here's how they looked before, with totes spilling out to a double-deep stack at the end of the racking:

clean up 4

And here's how it looks now, everything on the shelf, and the stack on the end gone:

clean up 19

(and yes, I did label each of the totes as to what kind of fabric is inside)


My sewing counter, cluttered up with little bits and bobs:

clean up 10

Now, with all those bits and bobs either gone away or put away, I have a flat surface to spread pattern instructions on. It's not perfect, but I might even be able to clear enough space to put out my serger:

clean up 20

My work table, on which I do smaller detail work and cut out small pattern pieces (the larger ones are pinned and cut all spread out on the living room floor, usually):

clean up 5

clean up 3

clean up 6

Now it looks like this:

clean up 22

And all that stuff that was on the table is now here:

clean up 13

clean up 12

The in-between of all these pictures? It was me making the basement totally impassable for about 3 weeks while I bit by bit sorted through everything I had taken out of my sewing room and did some serious weeding. Here's everything I'd somehow managed to cram into that room:

clean up 14

clean up 15

clean up 16

clean up 17

I sorted through each tote, made piles by fabric types, and started stacks of things to get rid of. As I emptied a bin, it became home for one of the stacks. The goal was to have one tote per fabric type. I mostly succeeded. And I did weed out three totes full of fabric, plus five boxes of clothes.

The only spot that hasn't been cleaned, and that is actually worse than when I started is the top of my pattern cabinet:

clean up 7

I need to reorganize and weed the patterns, plus I have a pile of random pattern pieces that didn't get put back into their envelopes when I was done with them. But my room is workable again, and I am going to do my damnedest to keep it that way.

Friday Favorites!

1 of 12 Fanciful Submarines, Giclee Print on Fine Art Smooth Paper(16"x12"), by gingerbees



Stunning Cerise Petticoat Party Skirt, by chopper178



Butch Brown Stetson Derby Bowler Hat and Box, by dapperdean




Made to Measure Victorian Corset in Suiting of Your Choice- Straps
, by TheJaneVictoria




WARNING Leave Me Alone I'm Crafting Sign, by Signs

Wednesday, February 2, 2011

New parasol, and lots and lots of pearls!

First, another new parasol - stripes!

Steampunk Lolita Black and White Striped Parasol Lucite Handle OOAK




And last night I completed a personal project, making myself an obscenely long strand of knotted pearls:


106 inches of knotted pearls by *dbvictoria on deviantART

I saw something similar to this in a department store before Christmas, and it's been on my brain ever since. So now I have my own! I'll probably make another one to see if it's a marketable product for me, but in the meantime I'll just enjoy my own set!